CAPITAL GRILLE,

A meat-and-potatoes haven for local powerbrokers, Capital Grille gives the impression in both mood and menu that a whole lot of moving and shaking is going on. The antipasto for two ($9.95) has a number of distinctive touches: pickled peppers and slabs of juicy, fresh mozzarella. The pea soup ($3.25) is a thick, smoky porridge with plenty of chunks of ham. To dine at Capital Grille and not have a steak is like entering F.A.O. Schwartz and settling for a yo-yo. The "Grille's Delmonico" ($18.95) is an inch thick, 20 ounces and swimming in juices. Save room for dessert " white chocolate mousse, "Death by Chocolate Cake", and sour cream cheesecake are among the offerings.